Skin basics
Most of it does not work
A short, honest guide to what has evidence behind it, what does not, and what order to put things on your face.
This is general information, not medical advice. Anyone with a persistent or painful skin condition should see a dermatologist rather than a skincare routine.
- 01A cleanser that does not leave skin feeling tight.
- 02A moisturiser, morning and night.
- 03Sunscreen every morning, all year.
- 04One active at a time, introduced slowly.
- 05Eight weeks before you judge anything.
9 entries
What the evidence supports
| Ingredient | What it does | Evidence | Worth it for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sunscreen, SPF 30+ | Reduces the amount of UV reaching skin, which is the main driver of photoageing. | STRONG | Everyone, every morning, all year. |
| Retinoids | Support cell turnover and the skin's own collagen production over months. | STRONG | Texture, fine lines, congestion. Slow and worth the wait. |
| Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) | An antioxidant that helps maintain an even-looking tone; unstable once opened. | MODERATE | People who will finish the bottle within a few months. |
| Niacinamide, 4–5% | Contributes to barrier function and helps moderate the look of oiliness. | MODERATE | Oily or easily-reddened skin. Higher percentages add irritation, not results. |
| Azelaic acid | Supports a more even-looking tone and is tolerated by most sensitive skin. | MODERATE | Anyone who finds retinoids or acids too much. |
| Salicylic acid (BHA) | Oil-soluble, so it helps keep pores clear of debris. | MODERATE | Congestion and blackheads. Once or twice a week is plenty. |
| Benzoyl peroxide | Reduces the bacteria associated with blemishes on the skin surface. | STRONG | Blemish-prone skin, short contact, low percentage first. |
| Ceramides | Replace lipids the barrier normally makes, helping skin hold water. | MODERATE | Dry, tight or over-exfoliated skin. |
| Hyaluronic acid | A humectant. Holds water at the surface while it is sealed in by a moisturiser. | LIMITED | Optional. A decent moisturiser already contains humectants. |
- Sunscreen, SPF 30+STRONG
Reduces the amount of UV reaching skin, which is the main driver of photoageing.
Everyone, every morning, all year.
- RetinoidsSTRONG
Support cell turnover and the skin's own collagen production over months.
Texture, fine lines, congestion. Slow and worth the wait.
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)MODERATE
An antioxidant that helps maintain an even-looking tone; unstable once opened.
People who will finish the bottle within a few months.
- Niacinamide, 4–5%MODERATE
Contributes to barrier function and helps moderate the look of oiliness.
Oily or easily-reddened skin. Higher percentages add irritation, not results.
- Azelaic acidMODERATE
Supports a more even-looking tone and is tolerated by most sensitive skin.
Anyone who finds retinoids or acids too much.
- Salicylic acid (BHA)MODERATE
Oil-soluble, so it helps keep pores clear of debris.
Congestion and blackheads. Once or twice a week is plenty.
- Benzoyl peroxideSTRONG
Reduces the bacteria associated with blemishes on the skin surface.
Blemish-prone skin, short contact, low percentage first.
- CeramidesMODERATE
Replace lipids the barrier normally makes, helping skin hold water.
Dry, tight or over-exfoliated skin.
- Hyaluronic acidLIMITED
A humectant. Holds water at the surface while it is sealed in by a moisturiser.
Optional. A decent moisturiser already contains humectants.
6 entries
What does not have much behind it
| Ingredient | What it does | Evidence | Worth it for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Collagen drinks | Digested into amino acids like any other protein; not routed back to the face. | LIMITED | A costly protein source. Nothing wrong with it, nothing special either. |
| Facial oils sold as anti-ageing | Occlusive. They feel good and slow water loss; they do not restructure skin. | LIMITED | Comfort on dry skin. Buy a cheap one. |
| LED masks, consumer strength | Deliver far less energy than in-clinic devices used in the studies people cite. | LIMITED | A pleasant ten minutes. Do not fund it by skipping sunscreen. |
| Jade rollers and gua sha | Move fluid temporarily, so the face can look less puffy for an hour or two. | LIMITED | Genuinely relaxing. That is the whole benefit. |
| "Detox" masks and teas | Nothing measurable. Skin does not store toxins that a product can draw out. | LIMITED | Clay masks absorb surface oil. That is all that is happening. |
| 12-step routines | Add variables. More products means less certainty about what caused what. | LIMITED | Nothing you cannot get from four products used consistently. |
- Collagen drinksLIMITED
Digested into amino acids like any other protein; not routed back to the face.
A costly protein source. Nothing wrong with it, nothing special either.
- Facial oils sold as anti-ageingLIMITED
Occlusive. They feel good and slow water loss; they do not restructure skin.
Comfort on dry skin. Buy a cheap one.
- LED masks, consumer strengthLIMITED
Deliver far less energy than in-clinic devices used in the studies people cite.
A pleasant ten minutes. Do not fund it by skipping sunscreen.
- Jade rollers and gua shaLIMITED
Move fluid temporarily, so the face can look less puffy for an hour or two.
Genuinely relaxing. That is the whole benefit.
- "Detox" masks and teasLIMITED
Nothing measurable. Skin does not store toxins that a product can draw out.
Clay masks absorb surface oil. That is all that is happening.
- 12-step routinesLIMITED
Add variables. More products means less certainty about what caused what.
Nothing you cannot get from four products used consistently.
Thinnest to thickest
The order things go on
Thinnest to thickest, sunscreen last in the morning, retinoid at night — and not on the same evening as an acid.
- 01Rinse, or a gentle cleanserWater alone is fine if your skin feels dry.
- 02Watery treatment, if you use oneVitamin C or niacinamide. One, not both.
- 03MoisturiserThin layer on slightly damp skin.
- 04Sunscreen, SPF 30+Always last. Nothing goes over it.
- 01CleanserNeeded at night if you wore sunscreen or makeup.
- 02Retinoid, or an acid — never bothPea-sized, dry skin, two nights a week to start.
- 03MoisturiserOver the active. Under it too, if you are irritated.
Five of them
Where people go wrong
01
Doing too much at once
Three new products in a week means that when something changes you cannot say what caused it, and when your skin gets angry you cannot say what to stop. One change at a time is slower on paper and faster in practice.
02
Switching before eight weeks
Most ingredients with real evidence behind them need eight to twelve weeks of consistent use before a fair judgement is possible. A shelf full of half-used bottles is usually a shelf full of things that were never given a chance.
03
Skipping sunscreen and then buying vitamin C
Sunscreen is the highest-return step by a wide margin. Buying antioxidants while leaving UV unmanaged is spending money on the second-order effect while the first-order one runs unchecked.
04
Treating dryness with more exfoliation
Flaking often reads as "dead skin to remove", so people exfoliate harder, the barrier gets thinner and the flaking gets worse. When skin feels tight, stop actives for two weeks and use a plain moisturiser.
05
Buying by ingredient list length
A long list tells you a formulator added many things, not that any of them are present at a useful concentration. Concentration, formulation and whether you keep using it decide the outcome.